Jump to content

Bitter sweet weekend in Tamworth recently


Maurice_King

Recommended Posts

If any was wondering where I have been of late,  I have been tidying up the tail end of the Gravity Bike Championship for Australia.

I am happy to report that I am now Number 2 in the sport in Oz and can now proudly wear the 2A number plate on my Bike.

IMG_0877.JPG

 

 

Unfortunately like many sports it is not without it's risks :(

And as a Result of the last race meeting for the season I am sporting some nice bruises as well as a couple of breaks - collar bone that is in 3 places no less.

But the Pain is certainly worth it , as I wasn't going to let these young fellas have all the fun. 
 

 

mozzshoulder-cr.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

'On ya Mozz ... and all the best for your recovery. Wondered where you'd been of late.

When does your thrust for no.1 begin ... can't imagine you being happy at no.2 for long.

Cheers mate, and go carefully (until mended).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the wishes fellas, Tom the calender hasn't been finalised for next year yet , but there is a round locally here in the Snowies then Blue Mountains then SA, Vic, Qld,  And then finally Tamworth again.

I was just 6 points behind the leader who I might add is a past 2 time World champ until I crashed in practice after forgetting to tweak my rear suspension after pumping the tyres up :(

Next year maybe :)   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No WUCKING FAY  any fool that leaves a perfectly serviceable airframe has shit for brains. 

I AM NOT going to arrive at the grave will a well preserved body but one thoroughly worn out and used up and have no regrets about "I wish I'd done this or wish I'd done that"!  I'll arrive with a grin on my face screaming " Woo Hoo what a bloody ride" 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes  I did and do.  my best speed has been in the order of 105 KPH and on the gravity bike a little faster but they were test runs out with friends on some knarly hills around here :)

Not bad for something powered by nothing more than gravity huh !!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not bad at all Mozz 105Kmh. Speaking of gravity, maybe this could be your next adrenaline junkie adventure. There' a crazy Frenchman or Canadian (Markus Stockl) who set a speed record 102Mph on a similar bike down the side of a volcano in Nicaragua. On his last attempt he barely survived, much more damage than a broken collar bone, I think he did a few km's on his face before he finally stopped. But hey maybe when you have healed.


 


i2pZe.jpg RoIQ.jpg


 


 gU7v4.jpg EacLB.jpg


Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been up a shade above 75kmh on a racing bike and it was a great adrenaline burst. Reality set in when I had a fleeting 'what if' moment as the bike reached maximum speed and a bend came into view. Brakes are wonderful - when they work. The run off if the bend weren't taken would have seen a splashdown in a local creek suitably filled with rain run off.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice bit of kit there Mozz, good brakes are essential IMO but the weakest point would be the spoke wheels, unless they are larger diameter rods or exotic metal, but I guess that's for weight reduction. Have you looked into having a pair machined from a billet alloy. And are there special rules governing class and build for the particular championship race.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are rules governing the wheels yes Disk on the rear only (apparently there is some BS fear of cross winds at speed screwing with the riding stability). But besides that there is a 34 Kg Weight constraint as well so a billet wheel would give that a fair nudge and cost a hell of a lot too.  When I built these wheels I selected rims that were able to be cross laced actually as this imparts tremendous Lateral strength. 

Each spoke on these hubs is laced with 36 spokes tensioned at 100 KG each and the spokes also cross over on the way from the left flange to the right side of the rim. basically the strength you get from crossed spokes in drive and braking is extended to left to right as well. 
The Spokes I used are SAPIM and they were not cheap The Rims Eclat Exodus extruded rolled 6061 T6 Alloy.  Cost including Tyre for each wheel was just short of $200.

checking_clearences.JPG

As you can see the spokes are off set adding tremendous lateral strength. 

Frame is Alloy 100 x 50 RHS  except for the swing arm which is 25 x 45  with all mounts and gussets of 10 mm Flat stock. 
I can post other images if liked. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for expanding on your original post Mozz, it shows that you are a true professional. Thanks for the info about your wheels, it is very clear to see the offset and the cross-laced rim, clearly you have an excellent knowledge about the forces at play and how to minimise the risk. Having the rim anodised also adds strength, the red colour may be, I'm guessing is anodised treatment or possibly a molly treatment.


I'll do some googling on the design specs that might tell me how the alloy is treated.


 


As you can probably tell this topic has grabbed my attention, the build quality and design engineering is something I could see myself doing, but maybe not the other side of things, throwing my leg over the crossbar for a downhill run maybe not.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jeff you are always welcome to have a go.  Yes the Rims are Anodised and Heat Treated for Stress relief,   Although the photo is an older one the Swingarm pivots which are free floating concentric mounts have pegs mounted on them which allows virtually all my weight to be transferred to my knees and thus push the C of G much lower.  I will also made brackets and mounts to move the rear pegs slightly further forward but mounted of the rear sub frame so that foot weight does not upset the rear suspension tuning due to additional unsprung weight - this was likely the cause for my unceremonious get off at Tamworth as the course was rather rough.
.
My chest is prone with the top bar allowing full and free movement of the arms for steering.  Now you might be interested to know that as the bike sits it is 24+ Kg and due to my design calculations ends up with %50 front - %50 rear weight distribution. With the addition of some Shot as ballast I hope to bring thin forward to the ideal 55/45 front rear bias

I can post images of the Forks and their modifications so you can see what was done if you like as others may be interested too.
  

Having my own Lathe and Milling machine if extremely handy :)   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mozz,


 


I agree moving the foot pegs to the seat support frame would prevent any unsprung weight interference through the legs with the rear swing arm, you could even attach the pegs to extenders so that you have a more natural riding position.


 


I have taken the liberty of reworking your photograph, adding a few little tweeks here and there, mostly to do with moving the Center Of Gravity, but also foot peg extenders. So at the risk of sharing a bad idea here is the reworked picture.


 


The Triangular section made of aluminium, bolted or welded to the frame, with cutaway sections to remove some un-needed sprung weight, has slotted sections through the vertical / Horizontal / diagonal planes (Red /Green). These slots would allow a movable/adjustable bob-weight, which could be moved on the fly or through testing to any position through these planes. It could also be adapted to having extra or less weight depending on the race setup or rider, getting you closer to that magic 55/45 weight balance.


 


ghlCs.jpg


Link to comment
Share on other sites

One jump ahead of ya son, I have machined up 2 standoff's for the main frame a spacer that will triangulate things just in front of the rear tyre and sufficiently far above the rear arm but mounted off the main frame extending back from the kneeler's and down from the seat post at around 45 Deg.  The pegs will end up about 50 mm forward of the current location. 
The front down tube you have your mass balance weight on will be unused as there is a shot chamber in the down tube and eventually there will be mass balance weights on a sliding arm that will give adjustment from just in front of the rear wheel to just behind the front wheel , so experimentation can be had and once the sweet spot found it be fixed in place so ballast can be added or removed depending on the course. But I am more in favor of finding the sweet spot and locking things down for that just as I did when road racing.  I am currently uploading  some more images of the construction since your interested and have a good understanding of what I am doing.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not and I have several jobs waiting 


 


caliper-mount_cr.jpg


 


Brake calliper mount mod 


 


right-pinch-mount_cr.jpg


 


Right side pinch mount 


 


 


 


clip-ons_cr.JPG


 


Front end 


 


stepped-nut_cr.jpg


 


The Fork End showing the stepped sleeve setup. 


 


 


sleeve-bush-nut_cr.jpg


 


 


As fitted.  


 


headclose_cr.JPG


 


Close up of the Steering Head checking clearance and angles. on the Jig 


 


frameweldready_cr.JPG


 


 


Frame just about weld ready , checking clearances and angles, and making some tweaks here and there as needed. 


 


 


downnpivot_cr.JPG


 


 


Close up of the swing-arm pivot, rear swing-arm etc checking for squareness and so on . 


 


 


More to follow if you like :P


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great pics Mozz, Aluminium welding is an art, are you using Torch and Rod, or Tig / rod and Gas. I've done some welding in my time of all sorts, stainless & mild steel, aluminium, but mainly small parts and some small structures, automotive componentry. Have not and can nolonger see well enough to weld to save my life. Tac and tac and weld and weld, ain't that how it goes.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tack it all together and check symmetry adjust as needed and weld. both TIG and MIG actually .  Mig to tack and preheat along with preheating with the Gas Axe , then TIG weld the joints . 

Not sure if you grasp how the front wheel is secured but ask away.

 

More to come 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well Mozz, I'm thinking forks to frame or do you mean front wheel hub/spindle to forks. I can see that you are intending to form the diagonal main frame section to the alloy pivoting boss on the forks, welding these two together, and then weld the piece that forms the seat and resting place for you to lay down is going to be welded to the top of this boss.


If its the wheel hub/spindle then I assume it has something to do with that internally threaded turned chunk of aluminium sitting resting atop the black knuckle joint in Post#35 picture 4 & 5 where the knuckle locates the hub centrally and the turned piece locks the spindle to the knuckle so that the forks don't twist. Then the only thing bearing any lateral or vertical load is the hub race.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Stepped sleeve nut as shown with the Cast fork end and hub with disc behind it is designed literally on the fly . Once I discovered that the hub was wider that the internal space between the fork legs, I recessed this area similar to the recess on the outside . What this does is centralise the hub within the forks , the alloy sleeve or Step nut as I call it then threads onto the axle but locates the axle centrally in the hole and this is tight left to right, the final thing is the pinch bolts in the fork ends are tightened locking the Alloy Stepped nuts in place and the axle and wheel along with it preventing any and all axial or lateral movement.


 


The steering head as shown checking the frame pieces was done that way to assist in 3 key areas , 1 torsional strength, 2 Support for the down tube lastly a wide flat area for the chest padding. 


 


The Steering head is 50 x 5 mm tubing with 2 bearing pockets machined up in solid then interference press fitted to the central tube and this welded to the frame,  there is an anti crush tube and shims to space out the inner bearing races so there is no side load on the bearings in the steering , the bottom bearing has an integral thrust race as well (hard to find these but I managed) 


 


The swing arm pivot shows the trimming and locations , the bottom pivot was made in a similar fashion to the steering head - I used again 50 x 5 mm tube and cleaned a flat recess on the inside then the pivot cups with bearing clearance lands were pressed into the central tube with a .005 thou crush.  


 


The ring for the Shock is also welded in place after checking angles etc. 


 


I hope that explains the images a bit better. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...