mmglads Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 My Antec "quiet case" (really is quiet, too) came with a 500W power supply, but reading on the forums, it appears that the larger the power supply the better. I'd be interested to hear opinions on the most suitable power supply for my system as listed below, which I think is a pretty average system these days, it could perhaps also help others with similar specs, or people like myself who are into "homebuilding" PC's. I have to say that I haven't had a system crash in quite a while, but I guess the Nvidia 8800GT with 2 supply inputs must be a bit draining! Also, as we live in an area where there are lots of storms (& floods) I've had a UPS for 3 years now & it's an absolutely essential bit of equipment IMHO. As it is due for replacement soon, any thoughts on who makes the most suitable (& affordable!) UPS? Cheers, Malcolm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty073 Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 i just built myself a new system and went for a 700 psu as i run dual monitors anf about 6 usb peripials shane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
}SkOrPn--7 Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Your power supply is fine for what you have in your spec but......................... What other hardware are you running like how many HD's,Fans or fans with lights etc all the things that draw power needs to be listed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmglads Posted October 22, 2008 Author Share Posted October 22, 2008 Good point SkOrPn--7, Currently I have 4 HHD running, 8 USB - keyboard & mouse, Joystick, rudder pedals, TV tuner, webcamx 2 (one for Freetrack), External HDD for backup, Logitech 6 channel speaker system & obviously the usual flash drives when needed. Only one DVD-ROM drive. Fans - only the Power fan as supplied by Antec & the usual mainboard & videocard fans, the system is very quiet & cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Archie Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 I got myself a powered 7 port USB Hub to take the strain off the power in my case and keeps the chances of a USB device failure effecting the system as a whole to a minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty073 Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 hmmmm tooking about usb failures i have an external 500 gig hardrive which s*** itself due to usb problems the only way i get it to work again was take it out of external case and run it in case via sata. Shane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice_King Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 A powered USB Hub is a MUST HAVE if you have many USB Devices because if you have a device fire an errant voltage up the cable for what ever reason you will take out the Hub and NOT (generally) the Main board. As for PSU Most modern PC's with additional DVD's and HD's Plus the power requirements of many graphics Cards I'd suggest as a minimum starting Point 550 Watt BUT I heartily recommend something in the order of at least 30% greater than your current power demands, and the reason for this is rather simple - regulation. Power supply breaks down 240 V AC ( Other Countries will be 240 - 220 or as in the US 110 ) into 4 prime voltages Volts Usage 1. 1-3 V DC Processor 2. 5 V DC US Bus and Memory, PCI and PCIe Bus's and HD's 3. 12V DC HD's and Video Card supply, Peltier and other Cooling Fan supply rails 4. Multi Con Multi Voltages and control connection to Main board. As the Load increases so does the potential for transient Voltages and unfiltered spikes and these are DEADLY to PC Processors and Memory in particular. A cheap PSU might just be VERY expensive so be vary wary of supposed bargains. ( They are bargains for a reason ) IMHO anyone using an external USB HD that DOES NOT have it's own Power Supply is asking for trouble. This puts tremendous strain on the 5 V rail through the USB Port. NEVER run external USB devices such as Hard Drives, Joysticks and so on that don't have their own supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmglads Posted October 25, 2008 Author Share Posted October 25, 2008 Thanks all! - Especially Maurice, who always has a good grasp of these things . OK - so a powered USC hub, yes, I have one, but only 4 ports - must get another, didn't realise the strain of USB. Also, will get a larger Antec PSU - I really like these, quiet & with plenty of connections. If there are any particular reccommendations as to USB hubs or PSU's, please feel free to advise. Cheers, Malcolm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice_King Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 My choice for Powered USB Hub would be the Dlink 7 Port Hub There are a list of supplies HERE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmglads Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 Thanks Maurice! I use D-Link stuff for my network & I'm generally impressed with the quality (well, most of it is still running!) - Also thanks for the link - very useful, that one. Cheers, Malcolm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
}SkOrPn--7 Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Good point SkOrPn--7, Currently I have 4 HHD running, 8 USB - keyboard & mouse, Joystick, rudder pedals, TV tuner, webcamx 2 (one for Freetrack), External HDD for backup, Logitech 6 channel speaker system & obviously the usual flash drives when needed. Only one DVD-ROM drive. Fans - only the Power fan as supplied by Antec & the usual mainboard & videocard fans, the system is very quiet & cool. Malcolm In my opinion just stick with PSU you have and if you take the advice as everyone should do of a powered USB hub then that 500w will do the job until it fails or you really need to do an upgrade just don't go tossing money down the gurgler for no reason. Your external HDD for backup doesn't have to be powered on unless your going to do a backup so that isn't a issue. Ricky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotspot Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 A powered USB Hub is a MUST HAVE if you have many USB Devices because if you have a device fire an errant voltage up the cable for what ever reason you will take out the Hub and NOT (generally) the Main board. NEVER run external USB devices such as Hard Drives, Joysticks and so on that don't have their own supply. Thanks for the tip Mozz - hadn't realised the importance of a powered USB hub - have just ordered a DLink 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmglads Posted October 27, 2008 Author Share Posted October 27, 2008 Thanks }SkOrPn--7, I'm sticking with the PSU as it's been pretty rock solid & quiet. I have ordered a D-Link 7 though, as I can see the importance of a powered USB hub. And of course thanks to everyone for their feedback. Cheers, Malcolm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
}SkOrPn--7 Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 Thanks }SkOrPn--7, I'm sticking with the PSU as it's been pretty rock solid & quiet. I have ordered a D-Link 7 though, as I can see the importance of a powered USB hub. And of course thanks to everyone for their feedback. Cheers, Malcolm. Just to make sure you understand and be on the look out for small issues any PSU that comes with a case even brand name ones are in most cases the low end market products. This isn't a bad thing but when you start hooking up some juice hungry hardware then it will show the ugly side of cheaper PSU's. Don't be scared by this I just want you to understand that there is a difference between them Malcolm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotspot Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 My choice for Powered USB Hub would be the Dlink 7 Port Hub Just a note on a change I've noticed since using the powered hub - The computer seems to run more quickly eg the FSX splash screen appears on the instant when FSX is selected instead of a six second delay, and changing between screens also no delay - would it have anything to do with the hub? Previously I had the stick, rudder pedals, external hard drive, mouse and printer running directly from the mobo USB's. Thanks again for the tip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skypilot Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 I have gone off D-Link - I had an 8 port switch on which at times all the activity lights would blink and then port 8 speed light would blink in sequence and I would lose network connectivity - unplugging power did not do any thing but it would come good at some time late for whatever reason. I emailed d-link and this is the useless answer I got - "It sounds like something on the network may be broadcasting bad packet onto the switch. This can be related to a fault NIC in a PC, some sort of virus / Trojan or spy ware on a PC, a fault network cable or some fault in the switch. "When you get the problem try removing all of the cables form the switch one by one, if the switch goes back to normal try to remember which cable you removed last then the next time you get the fault remove that cable first. If the problem stops straight away you have managed to find out which PC on the network may be at fault. If none of the above works, do you know someone that has a switch that you could test, if you are able to test another switch this will help to see if it’s the switch or PC. I hope this helps." Well I did know someone else with a switch I could try - Their name is called LINKSYS! I just love the last two paragraphs! On doing a bit of research on the net it is not an uncommon problem and the above is the best answer D-Link could give me! I am dumbfounded! So good luck with the D-Link! Thanks Maurice! I use D-Link stuff for my network & I'm generally impressed with the quality (well, most of it is still running!) - Also thanks for the link - very useful, that one. Cheers, Malcolm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice_King Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 Well with mass production there can be error's occur and I dare say this could be the case with the D-Link Switch, I have had one of their little Plug Packs fail but I resurrected things by running the Switch directly of the 5 V Rail from the PC Power supply ( I actually built the Switch into the back of the PC case) Since it was the Office server it seemed logical to me. Linksys and NetGear are 2 other companies that have good Networking products. As Far as I am concerned I will not use anything else but either of these 3 depending on what is available for the job at hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skypilot Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 I have gone off D-Link - I had an 8 port switch on which at times all the activity lights would blink and then port 8 speed light would blink in sequence and I would lose network connectivity - unplugging power did not do any thing but it would come good at some time late for whatever reason. I emailed d-link and this is the useless answer I got - "It sounds like something on the network may be broadcasting bad packet onto the switch. This can be related to a fault NIC in a PC, some sort of virus / Trojan or spy ware on a PC, a fault network cable or some fault in the switch. "When you get the problem try removing all of the cables form the switch one by one, if the switch goes back to normal try to remember which cable you removed last then the next time you get the fault remove that cable first. If the problem stops straight away you have managed to find out which PC on the network may be at fault. If none of the above works, do you know someone that has a switch that you could test, if you are able to test another switch this will help to see if it’s the switch or PC. I hope this helps." Well I did know someone else with a switch I could try - Their name is called LINKSYS! I just love the last two paragraphs! On doing a bit of research on the net it is not an uncommon problem and the above is the best answer D-Link could give me! I am dumbfounded! So good luck with the D-Link! Update: I thought I would have another look for an answer to fix my d-link switch- I did find an answer. The plug pack has a 1000uf 16v capacitor in it - the advice was to replace it- I did, with a 1000uf 25v capacitor and all is working - so I now have a spare switch - does not change my opinion of d-link support though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Routley Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Just to balance it up ... I have had a very similar problem with 3 (yes THREE) Linksys Gigabyte switches - similar models, ordered at the same time .. as part of two completely separate networks. I couldn't be bothered playing around (didn't have the time) They have been replaced by 3 Netgear Gigabit switches, which play fine with a Linksys Router ... and all has been happy now for 18 months. The lesson: it can happen to any company. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skypilot Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 It is the poor quality of customer service that is the major issue - they could not tell me or did not know their own products, or were not interested in looking after their customers. If they had told me it was a plug pack issue I would have bought another one off them if they sold them, but these days, you would probably have to buy a switch with a power supply just to get the plug pack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lost in Isaan Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 .................I've had a UPS for 3 years now & it's an absolutely essential bit of equipment IMHO. As it is due for replacement soon, any thoughts on who makes the most suitable (& affordable!) UPS? Cheers, Malcolm. If your happy with your UPS why replace it! It might just need a new battery - ies! I actually just replaced my internal 'Gel Cell' with a new 9 plate small car battery (which is stored in an enclosure outside for ventilation) and it has more than doubled the PC run time under normal load (FSX gets shut down ASAP after a power outage) of some 200 watts on my 650 Watt PSU. I haven't fully run it down yet but had > 45 minutes so far. Here is an idea what my PSU needs to supply under different conditions, I used my certified Fluke Digital meter to record the readings. UPS on PSU powered but PC off - 21 Watts. PC Powered Up at idle - 147 Watts PC fully loaded (flying YMML) - 357 Watts (see my PC specs to get an idea what I'm powering) Under full load this equates to a 28.6 Amp load on the battery (and it measures close to that) so in theory my 40AH Car Battery should last in excess of 1 hour under full load but we all know it won't. Simple Maths I=P/E I = 357 Watts/12.5 Volts (Battery voltage measured under load.) I = 28.56 Amps Anyway my 650 Watt PSU handles the PC requirements OK. Edit: OOPS just realized the thread is over 18 months old. Hope you go on OK Malcolm! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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